Fitting a Scotts Damper to the Duke

Many people think the Duke doesn't need a damper and for the most part I think they're right. I have found however that the Duke will start wagging it's bars around 75-80mph depending on the surface. Going over the bars at that speed is something I plan on doing only once and really I never planned the first one. Since then I fit dampers.

I've since spoken to Scotts and they'll be posting some shots on their site of this installation. While it's the only damper you can fit to a Duke it's also the best one out there so that's nice. So here is what you need to do to mount the Scotts damper on your Duke II.

Start by removing the seat, tank shrouds and tank. Next remove the right bar end weight and the throttle so that the cables aren't in the way of where you will weld the damper post. Do the same with the compression release. This is a good time to clean and lube the clutch perch and cable end. Replace the top bar clamp with the Scotts clamp being sure to evenly tighten the clamp. Attach the damper to the top clamp to assist in placement of the damper post. Most likely the post will be too tall but place it on the spine tube just behind the steering head so that it's as close to vertical as possible. Make note of how much of the post will need to be trimmed (I cut about 10mm off) and remove with a hacksaw. Be sure to file this cut smooth and then debur the inside and outside. Make note of the placement of the post and then remove all paint in that area so that it doesn't contaminate the weld. Clean the area with acetone. At this point you will want to fit and grind the base of the post so that it fits as closely as possible to the spine tube. With the damper holding the tube vertically in place tack weld one corner and then check alignment. Adjust any movement of the post and then tack the other side. This is the time to make sure that the post is straight, aligned and not interfering with the steering head or top triple clamp. Once you are happy that everything is good go ahead and weld the clamp on the sides and in the center being careful not to put too much heat into the metal as you're welding very close to the steering bearings. Clean and paint the frame and post and then reassemble (which as we all know is the reverse of disassembly) being sure to thoroughly grease the dampers sliding post. You will want to reroute the cables slightly so that they pass behind the damper post but otherwise there is no interference and the damper works perfectly.

The damper works extremely well calming the bike at speed but otherwise it's not noticeable - exactly as it should be.

Remove the seat and shrouds...

Remove the tank and place it far away from where you're going to weld.

Remove the throttle and compression release and tie them back so their cables are out of the way.

Attach the Scotts top bar clamp in place of the stock one and evenly tighten it down.

Remove paint and test fit the post trimming and grinding as needed. If you don't weld stop here and take the bike to a welder who can finish it in minutes.

Tack the corners and check alignment then weld.